You can resize any knitting pattern by recalculating stitch counts using your gauge: multiply your desired measurement in inches by your stitches per inch, then adjust all shaping proportionally. The average hand-knit sweater takes 40-80 hours to complete, so getting the size right before you start is critical. Whether you resize manually or use tools like La Maille to generate a pattern for your exact measurements, understanding the math behind resizing makes you a more confident knitter.
Before You Start: Gather Information
You'll need:
- Your gauge swatch: Know exactly how many stitches and rows per inch you get with your yarn and needles
- Your measurements: Bust, length, arm length, upper arm circumference
- The pattern's measurements: Most patterns include a finished measurements schematic
- A calculator: You'll be doing math
The Basic Principle
Resizing works on a simple principle: if you know how many stitches make one inch, you can calculate how many stitches make any measurement.
Stitches needed = Desired inches × Stitches per inch
If your gauge is 5 stitches per inch and you want a 40-inch bust, you need 200 stitches.
Step 1: Determine Your Target Measurements
Start with your body measurements and add ease for the fit you want:
- Close fit: Add 0-2 inches
- Standard fit: Add 2-4 inches
- Relaxed fit: Add 4-6 inches
- Oversized: Add 6+ inches
Example: Your bust is 38 inches and you want a standard fit. Target bust = 38 + 3 = 41 inches.
Step 2: Calculate New Stitch Counts
Using your gauge, calculate the number of stitches for each measurement.
For a pullover knit in the round at 5 stitches per inch:
- Target bust: 41 inches
- Total stitches: 41 × 5 = 205 stitches
Round to match your stitch pattern repeat if needed. If you're using a 4-stitch repeat pattern, round to 204 or 208.
For a cardigan knit flat: Each front = (41 ÷ 2) - width of front bands Back = 41 ÷ 2
Step 3: Recalculate Shaping
Here's where resizing gets more complex. You need to adjust shaping to match your new stitch counts.
Waist Shaping
If the original pattern decreases 4 stitches at the waist: 1. Calculate how many stitches you need at the waist (waist measurement × gauge) 2. Subtract from bust stitches to find how many to decrease 3. Distribute decreases evenly
Example: Bust is 205 stitches, waist needs 180 stitches. Decrease 25 stitches total (round to 24 for even distribution = 6 decrease rows, 4 stitches decreased per row).
Armhole Shaping
Look at the pattern's armhole depth and bind-off amounts. You may need to:
- Adjust bind-off for a larger/smaller armhole
- Add or remove rows for deeper/shallower armholes
A useful guideline: armhole depth is typically 7-10 inches for adults, depending on size and style.
Sleeve Shaping
Sleeves need resizing at:
- Upper arm: Calculate stitches for your upper arm measurement + ease
- Cuff: Calculate stitches for your wrist + ease (often 7-8 inches)
- Length: Use your arm measurement directly
Then figure out how to get from cuff stitches to upper arm stitches over your arm length.
Example: Cuff = 40 stitches, upper arm = 70 stitches, length = 18 inches (18 × 6 rows per inch = 108 rows). Stitches to add: 70 - 40 = 30 stitches (15 increases each side) Increase every: 108 ÷ 15 = every 7 rows (approximately)
Step 4: Check Proportions
When you change one measurement, make sure everything else still works together:
- Shoulder width: Should be approximately 1/3 of bust circumference
- Armhole depth: Check that the depth works for your cross-back measurement
- Body length: May need adjustment if you're significantly shorter or taller than the pattern assumes
Step 5: Make Notes and Track Changes
Document every modification:
- New stitch counts
- New shaping instructions
- Rows to work before each shaping section
Write it out row by row if needed. Future you will be grateful.
Common Resizing Scenarios
Making a Pattern Larger
When adding significant width:
- Increase cast-on stitches proportionally
- Check that armholes are deep enough (larger sizes need deeper armholes)
- Consider lengthening the body
- Verify neckline stitches still make sense
Making a Pattern Smaller
When removing significant width:
- Decrease cast-on stitches proportionally
- Shallower armholes may be needed
- Shorter body length may look more proportional
- Neckline may need adjustment
Length Only Adjustments
The easiest modification:
- Add or remove rows before shaping begins
- Keep all stitch counts the same
- Don't change within shaping sections
Width in One Area Only
Sometimes you need more room in just bust or hips:
- Add short rows for a full bust
- Add stitches at the hip and decrease to original count at waist
- Keep other measurements unchanged
When Resizing Gets Too Complex
Some patterns resist easy resizing:
- Heavy colorwork with specific stitch repeats
- Complex cable panels that can't easily grow or shrink
- Extremely fitted garments with multiple shaping zones
- Unusual constructions
In these cases, consider:
- Finding a similar pattern in your size
- Using the design as inspiration rather than modifying the actual pattern
- Generating a custom pattern with AI tools like La Maille
The Grading Approach
Professional pattern designers use "grading" — a system where they calculate exactly how much to add or remove between sizes. Each measurement changes by consistent amounts.
If your target size is between two sizes in a pattern, you can sometimes interpolate:
- Size M: 200 stitches, Size L: 220 stitches
- You need Size M.5: approximately 210 stitches
This works well for simple modifications but becomes complex quickly.
An Easier Alternative
Resizing patterns is a valuable skill, but it's also time-consuming and error-prone, especially for complex garments.
Tools like La Maille take a different approach: instead of modifying an existing pattern, you input your measurements and gauge, and get a pattern generated specifically for you. No math required on your end.
This is particularly useful when:
- You're not confident in your pattern math
- You want to recreate a sweater you saw (not from a pattern)
- You're working with unusual measurements
- You want to try multiple sizes quickly
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I resize a knitting pattern? Calculate new stitch counts using your gauge: desired inches × stitches per inch = stitches needed. Then proportionally adjust all shaping (armholes, neckline, sleeves).
Can I just add or remove stitches to resize? For width, yes — but you must also recalculate all shaping. More body stitches means more armhole decreases, adjusted shoulder shaping, etc.
Is resizing length easier than width? Yes. Length changes don't affect stitch counts — just add or remove rows before shaping begins. Width changes require recalculating every shaped section.
What if I'm between two pattern sizes? Either blend sizes (follow M for bust, L for hips) or interpolate stitch counts. Size M = 200 stitches, Size L = 220? Your "M.5" ≈ 210 stitches.
When is it easier to generate a custom pattern instead of resizing? When your measurements differ significantly from standard sizing, or you're between sizes in multiple areas. Tools like La Maille generate patterns for your exact measurements.
Ready to skip the resizing math? Try La Maille — upload a photo, enter your measurements, and get a pattern made for your body.